Across the plains to Jammu, over Zoji La to Leh, a failed run at Khardung La, Pangong and the dark skies of Hanle, Umling La, Puga and Tso Kar, down the 21 hairpins of Gata Loops, over Baralacha La to Manali and home via Delhi. On a Royal Enfield Himalayan 450.